Johnston & Murphy Shoes Review: What Does 170+ Years of Experience Get You?

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Until several years ago, my dress shoe acumen didn’t extend beyond $35 derby shoes from H&M. 

As expected, they came with all the bells and whistles: shoddy construction, pleather uppers (at best), a neat trick where they basically disintegrate upon getting wet, and complimentary blisters. 

My footwear journey has seen many brands come and go. From Florsheim derbys, to Cole Haan loafers, to Aldo Chelseas, I can’t get no satisfaction (cue The Rolling Stones). Paying premium prices consistently yielded discomfort with a handsome shoe, and cheap prices also yielded discomfort, but with less durability. 

I love the classic, formal-yet-casual wearability of loafers, and was recently in need of a new pair. Johnston & Murphy was a brand I always associated with Gap, Men’s Wearhouse, and the like. (“Be better than the Gap.”) 

However, given their storied past and longevity, I decided to throw them a bone and see what their loafer selection had to offer—specifically with the Breland Kiltie Tassel Loafer.

Our team also reviewed a pair of dress shoes (Conard Cap Toe in tan), two pairs of sneakers (XC4® Prentiss in black, and McGuffey Plain Toe in tan oiled full grain) and a pair of golf shoes (XC4® H1-Luxe Hybrid) to get a feel for J&M’s more casual offerings.

Let’s dive in.

What Is Johnston & Murphy?

Founded in 1850, J&M is one of America’s oldest shoemakers.

The brand is arguably best known for its classic styles like derbys, oxfords, and wingtips, which it has specialized in since its inception. (Fun fact: J&M has created custom shoes for many U.S. presidents, including Abraham Lincoln, Teddy Roosevelt, FDR, Ronald Raegan, and Barack Obama.)

Clearly, their age is a fact they’re proud of because it’s ever-present across a lot of their marketing.

And hey, I get it. If I owned a shoe company that custom designed shoes for Lincoln (check out the above video), I’d be telling you about it.

J&M have since widened their product range to include other leather goods and transitioned to crafting goods for women as well.

Things to Consider Before Buying Dress Shoes from Johnston & Murphy

Among formal footwear brands, Johnston & Murphy is sympathetic to your wallet. Cole Haan and Allen Edmonds average footwear prices between $250 and $300, while Johnston & Murphy sits more comfortably in the $150 to $200 range. 

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For guys, the decision to buy Johnston & Murphy comes down to individual preference. 

Those with a more modern palette for monk straps or square-toe shoes of any kind will have to look elsewhere. 

Those who want classic styles from a proven, 170+ year-old company with options that won’t break the bank will find an ample selection at Johnston & Murphy. 

Johnston & Murphy Shoes Review

McGuffey Plain Toe

Besides their dress shoes, the first thing that comes to mind when I think of Johnston and Murphy is the McGuffey Plain Toe. 

These shoes are a classic cross between dress shoes and sneakers, and they excel in the casual office environment. Featuring a slim profile and simple design, they go great with chinos and a button-down, or you could swap out the chinos for a good pair of dark wash jeans.

On taking them out of the box, I was impressed with the quality of the leather uppers, which have a nice burnished look. 

The shoes are light and the leather seemed pliable immediately, so I was eager to get these on my feet and test them out. 

The sole of the McGuffey has a rubberized, wavy pattern that gives good grip on nearly every surface. The grooved waves allow for water to be dispersed easily, and I felt that I had solid traction even in wet environments. 

At first glance I thought these shoes had a Goodyear welt construction, which keeps shoes largely waterproof, but the McGuffeys are made with the Stroble construction technique instead.

Stroble refers to a shoe construction method that’s often used in athletic footwear. In this case, the upper material is sewn to a fabric bottom, creating a sock of sorts. This results in a lightweight construction that’s sturdy but not stifling, which I appreciate.

Nothing worse than a hot pair of leather shoes that seal in the juices. 

There’s an outer, ridged strip of leather that circles the connection of the upper to sole, which features a sturdy stitch and goes a long way in making the McGuffeys durable. 

The insole has a combination leather and performance fabric cover over a cushioned footbed, which I find super comfortable. The leather helps keep your foot in place, while the performance fabric helps keep things breathable and airy. 

My only complaint is that there’s not much arch support. I have the unfortunate genetic predisposition of having feet as flat as pancakes, and these shoes aren’t lending a helping hand in that department.

The McGuffeys fit true to size. I ordered a size 10 and they fit exactly as expected. 

Regarding the break-in period, there was nothing noticeable. The oiled full-grain leather was soft and pliable out of the box, and the cushioned insole made for immediate comfort from the first step. 

Overall, I’m a big fan of the McGuffeys. The tan leather goes well with every normal color of chinos and pants, and these shoes are a great addition to any dressy casual event or outing.

Breland Kiltie Tassel Loafer

Modern fashion has established new rules for classic footwear. Where the loafers of my youth were only worn by old guys with baggy suits, today it can be “dressed down” and worn with jeans or chinos.

I appreciate this versatility. I have the option to emulate my elders, but with a suit that actually fits. 

Or, I can add an extra zing to an otherwise casual outfit, achieving the this guy knows a thing or two about a thing or two look. Allow me to explain with a simple formula:

Loafers + adult man with clean, modern taste in fashion = 

• Probable whiskey connoisseur. 
• James Bond-level confidence.
• Excellent conversationalist with high levels of wit. 

It’s simple math.

With this in mind, I picked up a pair of Johnston & Murphy’s Breland Kiltie Tassel Loafers. 

Leather Quality

The Breland Kiltie Tassels are a sleek pair of loafers with classic elements. The Kiltie style describes the fringed tongue that is tucked under the strap, or saddle, of the upper portion of the shoe. 

Made from genuine calfskin, these loafers are soft to the touch yet clearly durable. Since calfskin is, well, “young” skin, it has a higher collagen content than older leathers. 

A higher collagen content means the leather will be more soft and durable than normal leather, which makes it more desirable. 

The interior is lined with sheepskin and a microfiber felt patch at the heel that drastically reduces the chance of blisters. Combined with the cushioned insole, this shoe is like a comforting hug for the irritable dogs you call your feet. 

Since the leather is supple, it bends and creases easily to the stride of your walk. As expected, the creases stay in the leather, but the kiltie style helps to cover up unsightly wrinkles and keeps your loafers looking new. 

Sole Quality

The sole of the Breland Kiltie is made from sueded leather, and features a combination leather and rubber heel for extra grip. 

I find this inclusion essential. New shoes with a sueded leather sole are slippery. It felt like I was out there on skates before the sole was sufficiently roughed up to increase friction and traction. 

Without the rubber heel, I’m certain I would have tasted the pavement. For visual reference: 

A notable inclusion, or lack thereof, to the Breland Kiltie is a Goodyear Welt. 

Goodyear Welt refers to a style of shoe construction that increases the longevity and functionality of the shoe. 

Most shoes are constructed by gluing the leather upper directly to the outsole. This is simple and cost effective, but makes it difficult to have your shoes resoled or repaired.

Goodyear Welt construction adds a third element to shoe construction—the welt. This is a long, thin strip of leather that gets adhered first to the upper, and then stitched to the outsole. This makes it easy to slap a new sole on the shoe and also makes the shoe largely waterproof. 

The Breland Kiltie Tassel does not include Goodyear Welt construction. Although the early days of Johnston & Murphy shoes were riddled with Goodyear Welt construction, the style is only included in their “Aristocraft” line currently. 

Like most loafers, the Breland Kiltie has a low heel stack which makes for comfortable walking over extended periods. 

Fit and Sizing

J&M shoes run big. 

I’m typically a men’s size 9, so I ordered as such. If I had done my due diligence and read some reviews, I would have easily seen the majority of reviewers say to order a size down.

That being said, the fit isn’t horrible. The loafer has a comfortable toe box and fits snug but not too tight.

I once had a pair of running shoes that had a snug toe box, but turned out to be a little too snug once I ran in them. I was the proud owner of a shiny black toenail for the next year. 

The insole is comfortable and breathable, but a bit shallow on the arch support. Then again, I have feet so flat they may as well have opposable thumbs like our evolutionary ancestors. 

Since the shoes run large, my heel lifts out slightly as I walk. This is annoying, but not unbearable, and could likely be fixed with thick socks or some kind of shoe insert. 

Or, you could continue to do what you’re doing and read reviews before pulling the trigger. Do as I say, not as I do. 

Break in Period

The first time I wore the Breland Kilties, I kept them on for four hours straight. Surprisingly, my feet weren’t sore, nor were they heinously sweaty. 

Leather shoes and long periods of time are usually a recipe for what my wife likes to call “cheese feet.” The leather has a way of sealing in the juices and creating smells no one should have to smell. 

Been there more times than I’d like to admit. 

After about two more outings with these loafers, I’d say they were sufficiently broken in. The calfskin offers a relatively painless startup, and the microfiber felt keeps your heel comfortable on long walks. 

I look forward to wearing these shoes to outdoor, semi-formal, and casual gatherings.

What do Other Reviewers Say About the Johnston & Murphy Breland Kiltie? 

My review is one thing, but what do other Johnston & Murphy patrons have to say?

With regard to the Breland Kiltie, reviews trend overall positive. On Shoes.com, the loafer has a 4.4/5 star rating.

I did find some negative reviews that were consistent in regard to a hole quickly developing in the toe.

Despite the issue, I can also confirm that multiple reviews cited Johnston & Murphy as having incredible customer service. I haven’t worn my loafers for long enough to judge the validity of the above claim, but I’m due to find out.

My Thoughts Overall on the Breland Kiltie Tassel Loafer

Conard Cap Toe

The J&M Conard Cap Toe is an interesting take on the classic Oxford.

The shoe features a hand-burnished calfskin leather upper with brogue detailing. Along with traditional lacing, it has a soft breathable leather lining on the inside with lots of cushion in the footbed.

It has stacked heel with a rubber outsole that is colored at the back. These come with two pairs of laces, which I think is a cool touch. One matching in tan, and another more of a contrasting blue color, which is great for some added versatility when dressing down.

The support is where I’m a bit iffy on the Conard. The curved heel cup is comfortable and supportive, but the insole is fairly thin.

XC4® Prentiss Plain Toe

With the XC4® Prentiss, J&M has blended high-quality leather with a full rubber outsole, and I have to say, they’ve executed it well.

As an added touch, I enjoy the extra laces which feature a white stripe down the middle. This kind of unexpected extra always adds a positive feeling to an unboxing experience.

And I like that I can now easily diversify my style.

Support is the name of the game with Prentiss. Between the cushioned sock liner and sturdy insole, I’ve enjoyed walking around in these. Much like the Conards, they’re super comfortable.

These come with natural waterproofing thanks to the solid leather exterior. I took them out on one of the saddest, rainiest days yet this winter, and yep—the verdict is in:

My socks stayed dry.

I wouldn’t use these as trainers, but they do mimic the breathability of a quality running shoe.

Johnston & Murphy Golf Shoes Review

XC4® H1-Luxe Hybrid

With a name that sounds more like a robot than a pair of golf shoes, I expected great things off the bat. Or, off the tee, I should probably say.

The XC4® H1-Luxes are Johnston and Murphy’s flagship golf shoe. They’ve dabbled in this space for years, and the XC4 represents the culmination of their research and technological development. 

Straight out of the box, I was impressed with the style of these shoes. From the brogue detailing on the heel to the breathable uppers and overall sleek profile, these struck me as shoes that would psychologically and physically improve my game on the links. 

The XC4®s feature a hybrid-lug rubber sole that gives solid traction and stability on the greens, but isn’t so pronounced that it’s awkward to walk around on the street. I appreciate this balance, as I’ve had golf shoes that feel like you’re walking in cleats on pavement. 

These are comfortable on and off the greens, and I would be comfortable coming off the golf course and going straight to drinks with friends without having to change shoes.

The upper portion of the shoe is made with a super soft full-grain leather. This leather wraps around to the heel, where it meets the brogue detailing I mentioned earlier.

I’m a big fan of the brogue detailing, as it lends some serious style without compromising on the performance of the shoe. 

Right beneath the upper is a waterproof bootie, which you won’t see without tearing the shoe apart, but does a good job keeping your feet dry in rainy or dew-heavy conditions. 

This is a huge selling point for me. In college I used to get out on the greens in my running shoes and my feet would be soaked after the first hole. By the 18th I was pretty sure I had swampfoot. 

In the heel, the XC4®s have a neoprene stretch collar to ensure that you don’t experience any chafing of blisters. I found this collar to be a little tighter than expected, but since it’s neoprene I wasn’t worried about it chafing. 

Johnston and Murphy uses their proprietary Smart Degree Technology in these shoes, which delivers breathable temperature control in all conditions. 

Moving to the interior, the XC4®s have a double-width footbed that can easily be removed to make room for wider feet or your own orthotics. I like that they allow for this since these shoes don’t come in wide sizes. 

The insole is a multi-density footbed that provides memory foam cushioning and ample arch support. Given my lack of arches this won big points in my book, especially considering the miles of walking I’d be doing every time I hit the golf course.

The midsole is made from a shock-absorbent EVA material, which helps provide support from heel to toe. 

I ordered a size 10 and was happy with how these fit. Johnston and Murphy offers half sizes for these, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding the perfect fit.

Due to the cushioning insole, neoprene collar, and soft, full-grain leather, there was no noticeable break-in period for the XC4®s. These are an impressive pair of golf shoes right out of the box, and will keep you comfortable, supported, and playing well all day long. 

All the bells and whistles aside, these golf shoes made me want to get out on the course more often, and I think that’s probably the best indication of their quality overall. 

7 Things to Consider When Buying Any Pair of Shoes

1. Cost: It doesn’t matter how high-quality something is, the price (and your budget) will always be a defining factor.
2. Quality: This refers to durability, average expected lifetime, and the associated materials.
3. Comfort: If the shoe fits, it doesn’t mean it’s comfortable. You can look good and enjoy wearing them.
4. Sizing: Usually brand-specific. If they run large, small or narrow, you need to know before you order.
5. Design & Style: Style refers to aesthetics. Will it work for the look you’re going for? Design dictates function, such as breathability or fit.
6. Sock Liner: Sock liners wick away sweat and reduce wear-and-tear to the shoe interior. If they’re removable, they’re easier to clean.
7. Traction: Dress shoes are traditionally slick, but a bit of traction is a must so you don’t go slipping around in wet conditions.

Are Johnston & Murphy Shoes Worth Buying?

Johnston & Murphy shoes are built to last and look stylish. They do take some time to break in, which I see as a testament to their durability.

Overall, I rate them as a slight step-up from the other mid-range dress shoes and sneakers I have in my collection.

Even with the few issues mentioned, the value for money makes them a worthy buy, particularly if your budget is within the $150 to $250 range.

If you’re looking to make a long investment, you may want to consider a shoe that features Goodyear Welt construction, either from Johnston & Murphy or elsewhere.

This will drastically increase the longevity of your shoe, and make it easier to keep your dogs from barking.

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